SBay: Sorry I wasn't more clear. If you change from 16" on center you will waist plywood as the end will not land on framing and would have to be cut. If you are heating or cooling insulating the floor is a good idea. You do want air below the insulation so some kind of wire mesh should be facing the ground to keep critters out of the insulation. What we do we a shed like yours is place the timbers in the ground where you need them straight and level, they will absorb moisture so you want a 6 mil poly to protect the rest of the framing from moisture Then we build the floor beside it, make sure it's square and attach wire mesh and then flip it over on top of the timbers. Attach it to 1 beam with treated nails or screws ( the treatment in the wood eats reguler nails and screws).
Check your frame for square and then attach to the other beam, now your ready for insulation. ( Measure on angle from corner to corner and compare to oposite corners, adjust until both measure the same)
Keep in mind that lumber is not cut to length except for studs so all framing bits and peices have to be cut to length ) a 12ft 2x6 will be 1/4 to 3/4" to long.
Dropping 3/4" is just a term used to make sure plywood fits the layout. So when you lay out the endframing members for floors and walls, put the two peices together and hook your tape to one end and mark it at 15 1/4, 31 1/4 , 47 1/4 and so on, this will make the 96" plywood land half way on the joist or stud.
For floor plywood, houses are built with 5/8 tongue and grove, 5/8 should be enough for your floor and tongue and groove is a must. There will be tips for that too.
Last edited by nealtw; Yesterday at 07:11 PM.
Source: http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f32/non-standard-spacing-between-floor-joists-15825/
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